A Travellerspoint blog

By this Author: FierceOrc

Back home


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After a very bumpy flight across the Atlantic, not at all unlike driving along the Carretera Austral, we're now back home. And tomorrow it's back to work for me.

Next stop, in five years' time or so: Argentinian Patagonia along Ruta 40, the largely unpaved road on the other side of the Andes stretching across the length of Argentina, with Ushuaia, the southernmost city on the globe, as the final destination. My brother Jos and I navigated the northern part from Mendoza all the way to the Bolivian border in 2011.

Lessons learned:
1. My hair has thinned to the extent that I can make do with hotel hairdryers and no longer need to bring my own.
2.
3.
Hm. That's pretty much it.

Here's a couple of pictures I did not get around to posting before.

Hornopirén

Hornopirén

Chaitén

Chaitén

Coyhaique

Coyhaique

Puerto Rio Tranquillo - Marble Caves

Puerto Rio Tranquillo - Marble Caves

Puerto Rio Tranquillo - Marble Caves

Puerto Rio Tranquillo - Marble Caves

Puerto Rio Tranquillo- Marble Caves

Puerto Rio Tranquillo- Marble Caves

Puerto Guadal – Caleta Tortel - En route

Puerto Guadal – Caleta Tortel - En route

Caleta Tortel

Caleta Tortel

Villa O'Higgins - glaciers from the air

Villa O'Higgins - glaciers from the air

Ventisquero O'Higgins

Ventisquero O'Higgins

Coyhaigue - Puerto Guadal

Coyhaigue - Puerto Guadal

Posted by FierceOrc 12:03 Archived in Chile Tagged carretera_austral 4wd Comments (0)

Coyhaigue


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February 11

Back where we came from. Tomorrow we take the plane from Balmaceda to Santiago and on Monday we fly back to the Netherlands.

If you don't mind the dust from and bumping on unpaved roads, the ferries, the backpackers, and the cyclists, Chilean Patagonia rewards you with magnificent panoramas in which white, green, and blue dominate in an endless variety of hues. They've got plenty of wood and water here.

Posted by FierceOrc 12:49 Archived in Chile Tagged carretera_austral 4wd Comments (0)

Ventisquero O’Higgins


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February 9

Villa O’Higgins is tiny and drab, but the glacier was the absolute highlight. It’s a ten-hour boat ride out and back but worth at least nine of them. Glacier up close and personal. Bryce Canyon in ice. The tongue of the glacier is a veritable wall of ice, with pieces crashing into the water every once in a while and ice floating all around.

Ventisquero O'Higgins

Ventisquero O'Higgins

And now we’re heading back north along the same route to catch our plane to Santiago in Balmaceda.

But not until we fix a flat tyre.

Four times jacking up the car before we could swith tyres

Four times jacking up the car before we could swith tyres

Posted by FierceOrc 14:52 Archived in Chile Tagged carretera_austral 4wd Comments (0)

Caleta Tortel – Villa O’Higgins


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February 8

Going down and up the stairs to get to the car through the rain, I managed to slip on the final step before leaving Caleta Tortel. I kept it to myself. Nobody knows.

A bit of driving, a ferry, two more hours of driving with four backpackers in the back of the pickup truck, and we arrived in Villa O’Higgins. The end of the road.

The end of the road

The end of the road

This town right by the Argentinian border was founded not too long ago when this area was contested between Argentina and Chile. It’s quietened down now, but the precise borderline has still not been demarcated. It’s just that everyone prefers not to talk about it.

While we were confirming our glacier boat trip for tomorrow, we ran into an Austrian-American pilot who has traveled all over the world (80 countries, he says), whose 16-year old daughter is trilingual (German, Spanish, English) and waits tables in the hotel restaurant. He was advertising his flights by the glaciers, managed to find two Israeli cyclists to join us, and took us up for a 30-minute, 30-second (his timing) flight. At a price, of course. That was an unexpected joy. Both before and afterwards, he told us all, well some, about his life as a nomad, even as a child, his obvious passion for flying as much as this particular region and beating the system.

20170208_191733

20170208_191733

Posted by FierceOrc 14:47 Archived in Chile Tagged carretera_austral 4wd Comments (0)

Caleta Tortel

Picture added.


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February 9

This was our day of relaxation. Too bad the internet connection is like a ferry boat: endless loading times and slow motion. We could have made a trip to gletsjers, but since we have already booked a gletsjer trip in Villa O’Higgins for February 9, we elected instead to cover most of the wooden walkways, totaling some 7 kilometres, to take in the village in its entirety. What can I say? It’s all wood.

Two evenings of lively and engaging dinner conversation with Dutch, English, Chilean and Argentinian guests.

Caleta Tortel

Caleta Tortel

Posted by FierceOrc 02:05 Archived in Chile Tagged carretera_austral 4wd Comments (0)

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